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| Detailing Get ya wax out |
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#1 |
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well everyone has seen the results so here is a basic outline of the procedure.
products used wash stage cartec active shampoo with weak apc mix for wash solution (through foam lance) cartec fine clay. mark v showroom finish (qd & clay lube) time taken 1hr 45 mins correction stage cartec paint control by finishing pad for wet sand area's cartec gloss control by finishing pad " " super paint cleaner by finishing pad " " Perfect polish by hand time taken 12.5 hours wax stage cartec gold wax 1 coat collinite 915 2 coats dodo rainforest 1 coat time taken 3 hours now for the pics this is only a vague explanation of the process. if anyone would like to try it themselves and needs any help just ask me on arrival ![]() wheels cleaned and foamed(no pics taken shown after clay and 2nd wash) ![]() clay after half of drivers side wing. shows very heavy contamination ![]() swirl inspection in sunlight showing centre of bonnet before ![]() ![]() afters same areas ![]() ![]() once the best combination had been found we moved inside to control the light better some 50/50 shots and mid correction rear quarter before ![]() rear quarter 50/50 ![]() ![]() and after correction ![]() drivers door before ![]() drivers door after ![]() drivers wing mid correction ![]() finished wing ![]() roof before wash stage in sun ![]() roof during ready for correction ![]() left hand quarter is corrected ![]() finished roof shot ![]() full body shot after correction ![]() wax applied by hand ![]() ![]() all buffed off with pates refitted ![]() ![]() and finally the sunlight inspection and engine dressing ![]() thanks for looking everyone |
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#3 |
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the basic correction depends on how bad the paintwork is really.
general price is around £120-150 or the whole works (full detailing) is normally around the 300 mark but to members of the forum £250 fixed price |
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#6 |
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great pics Karl
looks like you deffo know your stuff mate think you'll be getting a bit more trade off here soon mate ![]()
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#8 |
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with key marks it depends how deep its gone. Some are just slight scratches and will buff out. (handle area type) but vindictive key marks are normally pitted and very hard to remove. they can be touched in like stone chips. but its near on impossible to get them perfect especially on metallic.
we did one on a bmw last year keyed right along both sides. but the guy had tried to touch it in and followed the sand area instruction. only problem was he used 240 grit paper. we managed to buff 95% out but the remaining paint was very thin. i will hopefully be attending some shows this year. my supplier is actually a sponsor on the cumbria show i think havent been to any since i was a kid with my uncle's. |
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#9 |
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Fantastic work, you are really selling your services short though!
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#10 |
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where i am dictates the prices mate. i have a company right on my doorstep charging 20 quid for a full valet so tto compete i have to match as close as i can. very few people know what detailing is. most just see us as valeters. tho we are starting to build our name. and gradually people realise the difference. once we have the name we will be re-evaluating everything and changeing some of the services around. i start training on the paint barrier treatments tomorrow. so that will be added once i get the documents for the guarantee
the price is based on hourly rate i can get an almost 90% correction in 6 hours on my own. plus i know the right combo of my stuff for near all ford paints. the two i have done on here were at different scales and gave me the judgement on timescales to work out the best price to offer. i dont push for the best profits yes they are nice. but i enjoy what i do and the satisfaction i get when the client picks their car up most. hard to describe the buzz |
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#11 | |
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Quote:
I presume when you say paint barrier treatments you mean synthetic sealants rather than clear films etc? I'm shocked you can get correction so quickly, we had a fight with a Focus RS (suspect diamondbrite all over it though) as it was sticky as hell. Only had to look at it the wrong way and it marred. You are right that the key to success is the quality of work - and yours seems to be second to none and the passion for it certainly shows! |
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#12 | |
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Quote:
![]() Great work Karl and fantastic pics also JILL
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Last edited by -Jill-; 21-05-2009 at 14:10. Reason: spelling |
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#15 |
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i think the reason i get such fast correction is down to the polish i use. its primarily bodyshop products all silicone free. sticky paint can be an issue mainly with polish that dries out quick. but i usually just spray a little qd on the pad and it glides better. and prolongs the working time of the polish.
like bulling army boots a little water helps no end i work on any make of car, done a feg jags and audi, you would all bork if you seen the interior i did the other day on an audi a6. im trying to get the owner of the garage i use to let me have a go at his old cortina no luck so far. he thinks the paint is beyond it but im sure i could bring it back up |
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#17 | |
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Quote:
This sticky paint issue wasn't due to it drying out, it wasn't even starting to break down before it was suffering from serious pad hop. I've never had an issue with Menz IP on pretty much any other car. |
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#18 |
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my polish's are all cartec. they arent well known over here but work very well.
there are 7 grades to refine a finish down. and cover all paint problems generally i find if a panel is too hot or cold it can cause pad hop. try leaving the car's panel in front of halogens for 10 mins. before you start to polish un centred pads can cause hopping too. not easy to centre properly with a rotary tho. |
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#19 |
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Whats marring?
Just done mine with 3m by machine, then lime prime by machine the 2 coats of dodo super natural by bare hand. came up a treat. Oh, washed and clayed it first. On the alloys used poor boys polish & 2 coats of collinite 915
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