1st time DA user query - FRS

[Wayno]

I've purchased a dodo juice DA polisher with a variety of pads and poorboys SSR1/2 for using on my FRS.
I prepared the paint by washing, claying and drying and taped the edges up as required.

I began by going light by using chemical guys finishing pad and SSR1 and then stepped up to SSR2 and then used a small pad to get a bit more cut.

However, part of my roof has alot of deep scratches which aren't shifting under a polish pad big and small and SSR2.

How is best to correct these?? Or am I at risk of taking too much paint off?

I don't have a paint thickness gauge so want to be careful.

Any advice is welcomed.

Cheers.......Newbie User lol

Wayno

[MasterAuron]

It's really hard to say without inspecting the paint, especially on someone elses car as the last thing you want to do is give them advise that might result in damage to the paint for whatever reason (if instructions are not followed correctly, for example).

IMO It would most likely be best for you to round the edges of the deep scratches off rather than reduce to the clearcoat by a large amount without a PTG. Then use a filler rich polish to fill them in and wax/seal. This should improve the appearance significantly without compromising the clearcoat and leaving plenty of clearcoat for future polishes.

If it was my car though I might well wet-sand them out and polish back up.

[Wayno]

Fair one mate.
See what your saying but aside from the deep marks its massively improved the scratches from the other half left over as I taped a line down the middle for comparison.

Is there a danger of going over the area 2/3 times that it will Marr the paint??
Coz I have gone over it a couple of times to try and lift them.

Dunno if I fancy wet sanding that part and under sun light I hope it'll look better than under UV light.

[MasterAuron]

No real danger, a lot of correction work requires two or three passes with a DA if you're using a light to medium cutting polish. Just remember that each time you go over it you're removing more of the clearcoat.

[rsdan1984]

you could invest in compound polishes and pads (not sure what the heaviest poorboys one is). just remember you will need to refine with a finishing polish/pad after. just excercise caution if not using a PTG.

[Wayno]

Cheers Fellas. I've decided that I'll probably get the roof carbon wrapped lol.. The scratches are deep and I don't fancy wet sanding them or taking it back further if I'm honest.

I've already made 2 passes with SSR/2 and a Chemical Guys Polishing pad, large and small, and they've made no impact on the area.

I mean it could even be my technique as I'm brand new to this polishing thing. Always hand buffed.

[Hotwheels]

I have just done a paint correction job this weekend on an FRP lots of swirl marks and scratches quite a lot of machine polishing but now it looks like a new car cheers.

[rsdan1984]

Originally Posted by Wayno

Cheers Fellas. I've decided that I'll probably get the roof carbon wrapped lol.. The scratches are deep and I don't fancy wet sanding them or taking it back further if I'm honest.

I've already made 2 passes with SSR/2 and a Chemical Guys Polishing pad, large and small, and they've made no impact on the area.

I mean it could even be my technique as I'm brand new to this polishing thing. Always hand buffed.

that's one way of correcting it

[Heavenly]

To be honest SSR polishes are a little weak and youll get better results using a more dedicated dat or Smat polish. you can reduce your working time on ImperialBlue by using the microfibre system , if you slow down the work speed and even use megs 205 which has pretty much minimal cut you can safely remove most defect squite easily , ive done 20 year old rs500 paintwork using this system and only removed 3 to 4 microns max on a car with between 90 and 120 microns. I measured up a mag feature RS500 today whilst working on a MK2 and this had identical thicknesses so of all the ones ive detailed they are pretty uniform. The MK1 likes swift sets with a little heat compared to the mk2 , the mk2,s FW , UG and PB all are under half the sets of a mk1 so its always going to be harder on your paintwork , i can get a MK2 done just about in a day but MK1,s take me 2 days +

[Wayno]

Ah cheers for the advice.
I'll purchase some of the megs stuff and see how it goes.

I think I'll make 2 passes on slow speed, 2 passes on fast speed and then 2 passes with light pressure on an in between speed and see what results come from that.....